Wednesday 16 March 2016

5


About to board our bus (same one we took to here from the airport) to Segovia and Avila. There is someone (Nick) feeling sick and they are not coming (Sammy is feeling better and is with us). I'm going to try very hard to not get sick, that would suck. Apparently we're going to be a lot busier after this Salamanca time, so maybe I should try to get my homework done while I'm here and not put it off too much longer.
For breakfast today I cracked open the fancy ham that I bought a few days ago. It was so good. I think it's salted and aged for awhile, it looks kinda like bacon but tastes a bit different. I had that with some hard boiled eggs. It was a nice heart breakfast; I like hearty breakfasts but it's not generally done here in Spain. I just like having the energy from a nice breakfast to keep me going throughout the first part of my day.
We'll see how this bet thing works out. Minute we step off the bus, I'll be listening. No English.
In the bus: we're passing old castle ruins in fields. One in particular is very castle-like. Turrets and all. Just sitting in the middle of the field, no roads or anything.

Ávila has a stone wall around all of it, with turret towers and crenellations.
"Muralla" in Spanish.
It was built in around 1000 after the Christians reconquered this area to keep out the Muslims. The Muslims left in around 1400. Estylo románico is when the windows are very small and tall, to shoot arrows out of but not get shot at. This was the style in 1000-1300 when the wall was built. I guess it's more of a security measure than a style, but Seve called it a style, so…
Just entering the city now by way of a small entrance (picture Bree from LOTR). To protect the city, it was always closed at night.
All the streets are super narrow cobblestone with overhanging buildings and balconies.
The cathedral here is built into the wall, and is older than any cathedral we've seen before (started 1100, finished 1500).  Less ornate, and full of different styles ending with gothic. 400 years of construction makes for mixed styles I guess. So there are tiny small windows and old bricks, and one fancy gothic style façade with a fancy glass window made from different stone.
There are really sweet candies called yemas de Santa Teresa, Saint Teresa being a saint that lived 500 years ago. I think her forearm is in this cathedral because cities we're fighting over where her body should be so they split her up. "Yema" means yoke, pad of finger (fingertip?) and also this kind of really sweet candy.
There's a Burger King here. Of course there is.
Inside the tourist "walk the wall" entrance there's a replica of the wall out of wood. It's interesting to see the way it's not completely straight.
Now we get to walk along the wall and see all the small streets below us.
Tyson, Jayda, and Ken Henderson already all lost the bet. You can be sure I will be filming the Oh Canada and push-ups in Plaza Meyor. 
There's a big hole (covered up with wood now) which used to be a staircase. And it includes a drain pipe. I can see into courtyards from up on the wall, hidden places in the city that you can't see from the street.
I found the place where they pour the hot oil onto intruders, they put a grate over it. It's right on top of the main entrance. So they can shoot them with arrows and then kill them with oil if they come too close.
I love how this city is like a jigsaw puzzle; there's no empty space. Buildings and roofs and the surrounding wall join up and cover the sky.
Mr Henderson has a metaphor for Spain, and for traveling in general: it's a buffet at the Empress. Everything is amazing, there's so much to eat bit at some point you just can't eat everything. I think it sums up Ávila (and Spain) pretty well.
Periodically there is a drain going down from the wall to the outside. Honestly, the architects really did plan this thing quite well. There are some boards put up along one portion of the wall where people's windows are right next to the wall. I guess they got tired of tourists staring in at all hours.

Me Henderson bought us some of the super sweet candies (which I now know are made of egg yolk and sugar, hence the name). I'm not going to have any, just because they are so sweet and I feel like that would be too much cheating on my no-sugar rule (I had a smidge of 90% chocolate instead). Emma says it tastes like soft toffee, but minus the stickiness. And quite sweet. People seem to like them or dislike them a bit, I think they taste a bit different than anything they've ever had before. They're whole egg yolks and sugar. Little yellow blobs, dusted with white.

In Segovia, we will see a roman construction that is 2016 yeas old. Year 0. This construction is an aqueduct. I'm so excited, because roman aqueducts are famous. And amazing. This one is still in use, transporting water from the mountains to Segovia. Segovia is quite close to Madrid, a 20 min drive. The food of Segovia are piglets, so there are symbols of little pigs everywhere.  Ponche is a kind of candy natove to here as well. There is a cathedral here, the "little sister" of the cathedral in Salamanca, built on the same style, slightly smaller.
We just drove by the very start (end?) of the aqueduct. It runs right through the city, pretty low-key at the start. Just a little hole type thing in a low building. Then it runs through a checkpoint building, then starts with the arches until it crosses a valley in the middle of the city using two sets of arches. Built using no mordant. It's held together with friction. Incredible.
There's a small monument of a wolf feeding two small children. It represents two brothers who built Rome who were abandoned by their father and we're raised by wolves.
I'm still in awe of the fact that this has stood, plain stones, for 2000 years. I'm afraid it's going to fall. But I know it won't.
There are mountains here that are supposed to look like a sleeping woman but it's hard to see when there's snow. I think it's just hard to see generally.
Again, skinny streets of cobblestone.
But this time with roman buildings, churches, and statues everywhere. And sphinxes and statues of famous men who led Segovia into battle many times, like Juan Bravo. 
There are no real car roads, but service vehicles and others occasionally make  their way through the crowds of people, like an elephant in a crowd of flamencos. It happens sometimes in Salamanca as well, cars just pushing their way across the cobblestones to small garages underneath small apartments.
Zoe and Matteo both lost the Spanish game as well. Practicing Oh Canada on the bus.
There's totally a weeping angel on top of one of the cathedral towers. It's grey while the rest of the building is sand-coloured, and it looks exactly like they do on the show, and it looks completely out of place. I'm a bit scared.
There's a guy advertising his restaurant in English: "All the foods".
I bought a nice shawl from a lady on the side of the road with her stall. She tried to get me to buy other things. But no. My obvious tourist ness was definitely a factor. The shawl is probably worth about €10. She said €20 at first. Then down to €15. Then I got it to ten. It's still possible I overpaid, but honestly I would rather buy things in Spain from street stalls than multibillion dollar department stores.
Apparently the cathedral here has been cleaned and that's why it's such a light colour compared to the one in Salamanca.

This castle, in Segovia, is the one that Disney was inspired by to make the logo. The original was built in 1100. But it's been destroyed and rebuilt many, many times since then. It has been a military school, a palace, and other things. Each room has elements from throughout the centuries. The big tower is surrounded by scaffolding at the moment, for cleaning and repairs, and was used for the most important things. We're going to climb to the top in a small dingy spiral staircase from the original castle. Escalera de caracol (snail) in Spanish.
There's a giant moat around the castle. The only way to get in is a small bridge four feet across. Very defendable.
Ok well apparently the scaffolding is also an indication that we can't go up because it's closed. So I think we're going to see the cathedral now instead. 
The cathedral of Segovia is exactly the same layout as the one in Salamanca. There are many many chapels. And a small museum area where you're not allowed to take pictures. There are so many amazing paintings and artifacts. Metal flowers, golden crowns, giant intricate tapestries, etc.
There's a display of keys. They're all so big and heavy. And some are very complex. There are also ancient coins: they all have prints of the King/queen in power at the time, or a coat of arms.
There's a courtyard in the middle, just like the other one. And a well in the middle of the courtyard.
The choir space is the same as the one in Salamanca: two fancy gold-plated angel-adorned organs sandwiching a semi-circle of carved wooden choir seats. And a book-holder in the middle: this time with four example books on it! The same kind of music notation, but two were closed so you could see the heavy leather covers and metal clasps holding them closed. I think the giant books are my favourite part of visiting the cathedrals here.

After the cathedral it was time to head back on the bus. We met under the roman aqueduct again. And drove back. We got home at about 9:30, the same time as the last couple days, but I'm more tired. Today was a very long day. But very cool. Now I have to fill out a page of homework we got on Ávila and Segovia for tomorrow's class in Spanish.

And have dinner. And then sleep.

1 comment:

  1. I don't know how you manage to absorb all those details, but so pleased that you can and have the time to write about it all. A buffet indeed! Amazing adventure. Stay safe. xo

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